Side Table Class: Assembling the base frame

The best approach to assemble a table base frame with fixed legs

Here we provide a blueprint including a video showing how you can assemble a table base frame. You will need a very flat table and dead blow mallets and wood glue. You do NOT need heavy and expensive standard wood clamps.

Our unique and very fast method of assembling a table base joined with dominos or mortise and tenon joints saves you the struggle of using heavy and bulky wood clamps. We deploy a very common and inexpensive packing and shipping material to apply the clamping pressure very quickly.

Many people who read this article may also want to learn our fast and simple way of gluing up an edge joined solid wood table top..

Please check out our structured online learning page or our classes reference for related teaching articles. Everything is on our blog if you just want to look around.

Side Table Class: Gluing up the table top

This is IsGood Woodworks own method of quickly edge gluing solid wood to create table tops, door panels, or any other wide solid wood panel you might need. Our edge laminating method produces flat wood panels free of twist with little effort or practice..

To use this method you need:

  • A very flat table that is paste waxed to keep the glue from sticking

  • Curved clamping cauls

  • Glue in a roller bucket (optional)

  • Clamps.

Quick bullet point recap:

  • Lay the boards on the table as they will be glued, with the edges running left to right.

  • Stand all of them up on edge except the one farthest away from you.

  • Roll ample wood glue onto the up facing edges and drop them back down on the table

  • Push the edges together to prevent the glue from drying from exposure

  • Place the cauls on the boards (across the joints), about one every two feet, curved side down

  • Clamp the cauls down just until they are bent flat to the surface

  • Clamp across the joints with enough pressure to squeeze out a bead of glue.

  • Give them at least a half an hour (for yellow glue), then unclamp

For related issues check out our structured online learning page or our classes reference for related teaching articles. Everything is on our blog if you just want to look around.

The simplest extension cord storage and cord organizer idea to save space and time

The problem: Extension cords come in all different lengths, and every shop needs a good range of sizes. Nobody makes a one size fits all cord holder, so you end up with a messy mass of cords all unwrapped and tangled in the drawer. It can be enough to make your head explode.

Here is a very simple extension cord holder that you can make to suit any length in no time at all. We started by cutting lengths of ½” scrap plywood 3” x 12” for the short cords, and 18” for longer cords. Next we drilled 1” holes on the centerline about 4” from each end.

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Then we set the band saw fence at 1” and cut out the section from the end to the hole. That’s all there is to it.

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Here is the much improved outcome:

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Achieving Energy Efficiency in Your Wooden Home

Wood is one of the most beautiful natural products that one can build a home with.

Whether it is a small outbuilding for guests, a log cabin or a bigger, more ambitious project, the natural texture and pattern of wood makes it a wonderful material for construction. It is strong, robust and naturally occurring too, and a home constructed of wood has a certain allure and attraction that a brick and mortar home simply does not.

Maybe you like the rustic appeal or the sustainable properties of wood. Maybe, you just like the aesthetic. It may be that you are embarking on a tiny house project, like the ones in our article Our Tiny House RV Concept, Progress, and Future. If you are, there will be elements such as treatment and care you need to factor in post-build. Whatever the reason, choosing wood for your home does bring with it responsibilities and considerations that building from traditional materials may not.

If your wooden building is for residing in over any period, then keeping heat in it will be a concern for you. If you have built a ‘proper’ house from wood, then conventional heating and insulating methods may apply, but if your home is one that is intended to be off-the-grid or a smaller cabin by a lake or in a forest, then you will need to make special allowances for heating and staying warm.

Choosing the right wood species at the start of the build will impact the thermal efficiency of your wooden home. For instance, the US Government’s energy website suggests cedar, spruce and pine are all good for building as they suffer the lowest air leakage and shrinkage, thus making them thermally more efficient and reliable over time. Another pre-build consideration is moisture protection – if you treat the lumber correctly prior to the build you can reduce the threat of mold and water ingress internally.

One area you will also need to consider is how a wooden home can bring down energy costs. Energy compliance is very much about achieving carbon targets, but at a personal level, it is about reducing bills and keeping your costs down. Insulation is often a good way of doing this, and in a conventional home, you can use cavity wall insulation as well as products in the roof space. In HomeServe’s guide to saving energy around the home they note how lofts can help keep costs down, and that also applies to wooden homes. However, the nature of a wooden home’s design may mean that insulation must be placed directly onto the underside of the roof, rather than in a loft space. The concept is still very much the same; heat is lost through the roof, so whatever design you have used, insulating the roof is a great way to conserve energy. Depending on your design, you can even insulate outside the wooden roof, but under any covering you use, such as shingle, felt or slate

Remember, whatever heating method you use inside your wooden building, the product itself acts as a thermal battery. Eco Home explains how thermal batteries are a great way to heat your home, perhaps using solar power or ground heat, but at a very basic level simply using logs and any heat source mimics the effect. Under the right circumstances, logs can store heat generated during the day and gradually release it at night. Again, that is very much dependent on the type of heat source you use, and the type of wood you use too.

These are the main considerations for you to bear in mind when constructing your log-walled home, although the subject is far more extensive than simply picking the right species of wood. However, by making the right choices early in the build, you can ensure the heating source you choose later is effective and keeps you warm and cozy on those colder evenings.

Written by guest author Jeffrey N. Austin.

7 Essential steps to process raw lumber flat, straight and to dimension

Quick steps to flatten wood

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Looking for easy to follow steps to flatten wood? This quick guide with video tutorials will show you the exact steps needed in order to process raw lumber and flatten wood.

By the end of this free training you will have what you need to begin building fine furniture, millwork, and any other high quality woodwork.

Each section and step below is accompanied with text and video training.

Flattening wood: What you need to know before you start

In the process that produces kiln dried rough lumber, each step can add twist, cup and bow warp. It is not flat. Since the lumber is long the curve extends outside of an imagined flat board of standard finished thickness.

Manufacturers make finished lumber smooth faced and to a standard cross section, but they cannot make it flat without cutting it too short to be sellable.  

Most shop projects require flat straight lumber of precise cross section dimensions. Since we know what our lengths will be, we can cut our boards shorter, then flatten them.

You cannot buy it flat, but you can buy it at full rough thickness, or very lightly planed with a smooth surface. Shops buy their lumber as either rough sawn, or “hit and miss” that is lightly planed to a still thick standard but mostly smooth.

1. Buy wood milled for commercial shops

You will usually need to source your wood commercially or at a specialty shop for recreational woodworkers. Here in Seattle we have the rare advantage of a lumber yard that sells the commercial products in a retail environment where you can pick it yourself.

2 Rough saw the wood slightly oversize

For each cross section dimension in your batch rough saw enough pieces from material that is thicker than the finish dimension. Each set of rough material should match the width + ⅜” and the length + 6”.

You are making material, NOT the actual length required. 

Do not rough out much longer than about 4’ unless the finish size is greater, and do not rough out less than about 18” since anything shorter will be hard to control.

As an example, you may need 5 pieces 6” long, and two pieces 30”, actual finished length. You would rough out one 36” piece for the 6” pieces and two 36” pieces for the 30” pieces. (5 x 6 = 30 plus two more at 30 require 3 pieces at 36”)

3. Test and mark the wood for crown and twist warp

To mark the wood with subtle precision you need a flat surface to set the wood on and test it by seeing how it rocks on the flat surface. Visual testing only gets you so close, and it is nearly impossible to detect twist by eye.

Genuinely flat surfaces are rare and usually have to be built intentionally with flatness in mind. Every jointer has two flat surfaces, and for longer pieces a good flat table is needed.

Our symbols for marking up the wood allow you to see exactly how to hold each piece to avoid rocking as you feed it over the jointer by hand. If the wood tips out of a flat plane while passing it over the jointer it will not come out flat.

4. Joint concave face flat

Jointers are used to produce flat faces and straight edges on lumber. Using the marking from step 3 above you joint the face opposite the crown (the hollow side of the bow) to produce the first flat surface. 

The video in section 3 gives you good instructions on how to hold the wood when feeding it over the jointer, and this section provides a good visual of the jointer’s cutting action

5. Plane convex face flat

Planers make a smooth surface and are used to produce a given thickness. They will copy whatever shape exists on the bottom to the top, therefore the jointer must first flatten one face..

6. Joint one edge straight

Now that the board is flat on both faces it is ready to return to the jointer to straighten one edge. At this point either face can serve to help guide the travel over the cutter. Both the table and the attached fence are used for control. The board is stood on edge on the table to produce straightness, and pressed against the fence to make sure the edge is ninety degrees to the face.

7. Use the table saw to rip to final width

The planer copies a flat face to the opposite face and the table saw copies a straight edge to the opposite edge, with the straightened edge held against the table saw’s rip fence. The rip fence is set to the desired final width, as the planer was set to the desired thickness. 

The wood is now flat straight and to dimension, ready to cut to length.

For more woodwork training and tips, make sure to check this site frequently. You can also take advantage of our shop membership and subscription packages where you will get access to a large shop with high quality commercial equipment along with expert mentoring so you can build your woodworking projects with confidence.

Check out the available woodworking packages and get started today

Jointer Training

The jointer is the second of the three most important machines in a woodworking shop. It enables the woodworker to produce flat and straight faces and edges on raw lumber, which always comes with some warp and twist. This video teaches you the basic function of the jointer, as well step by step for measuring, marking, and flattening a rough board.

Thickness Planer Training

The thickness planer is designed to produce a board of a constant thickness, depending on a movable table and a scale to set the thickness. The table adjusts in height to vary the distance between it and a cylindrical cutter head that is mounted above the table. As wood is fed into the planer it is picked up by a powered feed roller that presses it down and carries through the planer under the cutter head. Any part of that board that is thicker than the distance from table to cutter head will be machined off to produce a constant thickness.

Thickness planers cannot produce a flat board with no warp unless one face has already been flattened with a jointer.

Miter Saw Training

Miter saws are for “crosscutting” or cutting cutting across the grain of wood (or across the shorter direction if the material has no grain). Miter saws are designed to crosscut at an angle, which is called a miter cut. They are quick to use, and also capable of precision finish cuts. A miter saw would be the first choice for cutting a picture frame.

Panel saw training

The sliding panel table saw is essential for any for profit cabinet making shop. Panel saws of this type are equipped to cut a perfect straight edge up to 10’ long, then slice it into strips of various widths. Those strips are then crosscut to quickly produce all the parts for a cabinet or set of cabinets with high precision. Panel saws are equipped with a special scoring blade that eliminates unsightly surface tear out.