How big is your planer?

Size is important when it comes to flattening and smoothing your wood.

IsGood wWoodworks has a Grizzly 20” helical head planer and a 18” wide belt sander - so what if you need bigger?

  1. Buy us a new planer/sander - warning they are not cheap ;-) But we will name the tool in your honour!

  2. We have a router sled setup that you can use but its time consuming and messy

  3. There’s a few places around the area that have wider sanders (wide planers are pretty rare but the sanders can flatten with low grit paper) or big CNCs - they charge by the hour.

How to find IsGood Woodworks

Our address is 4660 E Marginal Way S - but don’t put that address in your GPS or you will end up on one of the busiest road in Seattle with no parking.

Instead head to South Alaska St and Ohio Ave S which will bring you to the South East corner of our building.

Park along the south side, or if you have materials to unload you can temporarily park at the loading dock. Come in through the back door and IsGood Woodworks will be the first door you see when you come in.



Using the lathe at IsGood Woodworks

When you join IsGood we will take you to every machine and walk you through how it works, the right techniques to use and how to stay safe. We will demonstrate the correct usage and then ask you to repeat the action. We have a video that reinforces this teaching and we encourage members to always ask us or other members whenever they have a question. Some people learn in classes and others learn in 1 on 1 mentoring. The result is the same we consider you certified for that machine for solo use.

But then there is the lathe! Using the lathe isn’t as simple as ‘stand here’, ‘push that button’, ‘hold this here’, and other instructions. It takes a lot more time to learn all of the skills and that is not a skill that I (Andy) have.

But we have a solution! If members take an introductory lathe class at a local school we will consider you certified to use our lather as long as you come down and put the training into practice within 4 weeks of the class.

The places we recommend are:
Pratt Fine Arts Center
Port Townsend School of Woodworking
Woodcraft of Seattle

The lathe classes are often booked out and waitlisted months in advance so plan accordingly

The Seattle Woodturners Association may also be able to help you

IsGood Woodworks wants to belong to you

It is time to let things change

I have reached the age when mortality is a real companion. I am seeking to transform IsGood to a non-profit community asset and step back to a smaller role. My vision for my life’s work is for it to become an enduring community asset: With 1) User ownership 2) A core group to handle general oversight, shop floor management, teaching, and office. 3) a good balance between collective and autonomous decision making. 4) Robust opportunities for small groups to imagine and create exciting innovations and improvements. 

This idea has been passed around among several of my committed users, and judging from the potential resources and overwhelming interest revealed it should not be hard to achieve. After 40 years in business, 14 of them as a public access shop, I have proven the model, now I need to pass most of it on. All the systems are in place and scalable.

The first step in transitioning the shop to the new vision is to bring together a group who are sincerely interested in the idea to begin developing a healthy design. I have lots of good offers for advice including a pro bono legal work on making the idea water tight.

The biggest obstacle is IsGood does not have enough cash flow (it IS improving) to pay good salaries for a core group. I cannot engineer this change myself because I am battling cancer. I want to leave Seattle with an enduring community owned asset.

If this idea is compelling to you, please join us as a member to get to know us and give us your ideas

Jointer vs Planer

Jointers flatten, Planers control thickness, Both smooth wood

When it comes to woodworking, there are two popular tools that are used and often get confused with each other: the jointer and the planer. Although they have different purposes, they both play important roles in preparing wood for shop use. .So, what exactly are they and how do they differ?

Jointer showing how the wood motion is controlled to make a flat face

Planers have the cutter head ABOVE the table. The material is passed through the gap between the table below and the cutter above. The space between is set to a scale with a wheel and produces the set thickness

Jointers

How do jointers work?

The jointer is used to create smooth flat planes on any face or edge of a rough piece of wood. It does this by guiding the wood across a cutter using two flat surfaces to keep it from tipping out of the plane as it travels

Jointers cannot control how thick or wide a board turns out to be

Planers

The planer is used to reduce and control the thickness of a piece of wood while also producing a smooth, but not necessarily flat surface.

Planers cannot create a flat surface unless the board already has at least one flat face.

Wood Planer

Whether you are a seasoned pro who works with wood for years or just getting started with DIY woodworking projects at home, sooner or later you will need a wood planer. Wood planers smooth surfaces and control the thickness.

Planer and Jointer Equipment

So, how do these two complimentary tools work together? Jointer flattens one face, planer copies that flat face to the opposite side. Both machines are needed for making lumber flat and to a given thickness. 

If you're not sure if you want to invest in a planer or jointer, don't worry - you can always rent one! That way, you can try it out and see if it's the right tool for you before making a purchase.

That’s why woodworkers. hobbyists, and professionals alike have chosen as their go-to woodworking shop.

IsGood Woodworks provides a professionally equipped shop for rent, so whether you're just starting out or you're a seasoned pro, we have everything you need to get the job done.

With IsGood Woodworks, you'll be able to get the most out of your woodworking experience. You can also find expert coaching and guidance from expert woodworkers. 


Drilling pin holes for adjustable shelves with a shelf pin jig

This short video walks you through drilling the adjustable shelf pin holes with a shelf pin jig. We have a line boring drill that can drill 14 pin holes at once,. The cabinet does not have the height for 14 holes and it really looks wrong to run the holes right to the bottom of the cabinet. We instead use the line boring drill to make a jig to drill holes individually. Three is the best number for this little cabinet.

Our students are not going to have a line boring drill, but no worries, they have a choice to sign up as woodshop members, or ready made jigs for one hole at a time are available.

You may have searched for a while to find this reliable information about drilling adjustable shelf pin holes.. We write and vet every article to ensure you receive expert advice and guidance. See our full library of woodworking training videos and articles.


Side Table Class: Assembling the base frame

The best approach to assemble a table base frame with fixed legs

Here we provide a blueprint including a video showing how you can assemble a table base frame. You will need a very flat table and dead blow mallets and wood glue. You do NOT need heavy and expensive standard wood clamps.

Our unique and very fast method of assembling a table base joined with dominos or mortise and tenon joints saves you the struggle of using heavy and bulky wood clamps. We deploy a very common and inexpensive packing and shipping material to apply the clamping pressure very quickly.

Many people who read this article may also want to learn our fast and simple way of gluing up an edge joined solid wood table top..

Please check out our structured online learning page or our classes reference for related teaching articles. Everything is on our blog if you just want to look around.

Side Table Class: Gluing up the table top

This is IsGood Woodworks own method of quickly edge gluing solid wood to create table tops, door panels, or any other wide solid wood panel you might need. Our edge laminating method produces flat wood panels free of twist with little effort or practice..

To use this method you need:

  • A very flat table that is paste waxed to keep the glue from sticking

  • Curved clamping cauls

  • Glue in a roller bucket (optional)

  • Clamps.

Quick bullet point recap:

  • Lay the boards on the table as they will be glued, with the edges running left to right.

  • Stand all of them up on edge except the one farthest away from you.

  • Roll ample wood glue onto the up facing edges and drop them back down on the table

  • Push the edges together to prevent the glue from drying from exposure

  • Place the cauls on the boards (across the joints), about one every two feet, curved side down

  • Clamp the cauls down just until they are bent flat to the surface

  • Clamp across the joints with enough pressure to squeeze out a bead of glue.

  • Give them at least a half an hour (for yellow glue), then unclamp

For related issues check out our structured online learning page or our classes reference for related teaching articles. Everything is on our blog if you just want to look around.

The simplest extension cord storage and cord organizer idea to save space and time

The problem: Extension cords come in all different lengths, and every shop needs a good range of sizes. Nobody makes a one size fits all cord holder, so you end up with a messy mass of cords all unwrapped and tangled in the drawer. It can be enough to make your head explode.

Here is a very simple extension cord holder that you can make to suit any length in no time at all. We started by cutting lengths of ½” scrap plywood 3” x 12” for the short cords, and 18” for longer cords. Next we drilled 1” holes on the centerline about 4” from each end.

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Then we set the band saw fence at 1” and cut out the section from the end to the hole. That’s all there is to it.

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Here is the much improved outcome:

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Achieving Energy Efficiency in Your Wooden Home

Wood is one of the most beautiful natural products that one can build a home with.

Whether it is a small outbuilding for guests, a log cabin or a bigger, more ambitious project, the natural texture and pattern of wood makes it a wonderful material for construction. It is strong, robust and naturally occurring too, and a home constructed of wood has a certain allure and attraction that a brick and mortar home simply does not.

Maybe you like the rustic appeal or the sustainable properties of wood. Maybe, you just like the aesthetic. It may be that you are embarking on a tiny house project, like the ones in our article Our Tiny House RV Concept, Progress, and Future. If you are, there will be elements such as treatment and care you need to factor in post-build. Whatever the reason, choosing wood for your home does bring with it responsibilities and considerations that building from traditional materials may not.

If your wooden building is for residing in over any period, then keeping heat in it will be a concern for you. If you have built a ‘proper’ house from wood, then conventional heating and insulating methods may apply, but if your home is one that is intended to be off-the-grid or a smaller cabin by a lake or in a forest, then you will need to make special allowances for heating and staying warm.

Choosing the right wood species at the start of the build will impact the thermal efficiency of your wooden home. For instance, the US Government’s energy website suggests cedar, spruce and pine are all good for building as they suffer the lowest air leakage and shrinkage, thus making them thermally more efficient and reliable over time. Another pre-build consideration is moisture protection – if you treat the lumber correctly prior to the build you can reduce the threat of mold and water ingress internally.

One area you will also need to consider is how a wooden home can bring down energy costs. Energy compliance is very much about achieving carbon targets, but at a personal level, it is about reducing bills and keeping your costs down. Insulation is often a good way of doing this, and in a conventional home, you can use cavity wall insulation as well as products in the roof space. In HomeServe’s guide to saving energy around the home they note how lofts can help keep costs down, and that also applies to wooden homes. However, the nature of a wooden home’s design may mean that insulation must be placed directly onto the underside of the roof, rather than in a loft space. The concept is still very much the same; heat is lost through the roof, so whatever design you have used, insulating the roof is a great way to conserve energy. Depending on your design, you can even insulate outside the wooden roof, but under any covering you use, such as shingle, felt or slate

Remember, whatever heating method you use inside your wooden building, the product itself acts as a thermal battery. Eco Home explains how thermal batteries are a great way to heat your home, perhaps using solar power or ground heat, but at a very basic level simply using logs and any heat source mimics the effect. Under the right circumstances, logs can store heat generated during the day and gradually release it at night. Again, that is very much dependent on the type of heat source you use, and the type of wood you use too.

These are the main considerations for you to bear in mind when constructing your log-walled home, although the subject is far more extensive than simply picking the right species of wood. However, by making the right choices early in the build, you can ensure the heating source you choose later is effective and keeps you warm and cozy on those colder evenings.

Written by guest author Jeffrey N. Austin.